We’ve all been out on days where the waves were just a hint too mean for our abilities. Maybe it was the first time you had to climb your leash to the surface, or possibly the double-overhead day at two-six that left you concussed, or it could have been the two-wave hold-down at OB that gave you a new appreciation for life. Whatever the memory or scar, it's telling that even the best of us have our upper limits.

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So much of what we do on a day-to-day basis in modern life is done on mindless autopilot. We work, eat, sleep, and live out our lives with so little conscious engagement that we risk becoming the zombies we find so ceaselessly entertaining on TV. And this mindlessness often carries over to the way we surf, or more specifically, to the way we paddle.

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